Tin Cup for a Chalice

As I enter my last week in the Big G, I am once again reminded of the differences between life in the States and life in the 3^rd world.    I’ve dominated toddlers in duck, duck goose, (perro, perro,  gato  as they say here), been schooled by 9 year-olds in soccer, celebrated birthdays with traditional fireworks and songs at 4:45 in the morning, shared a meal with a local family, and overall shared in the sense of joy and community that flourishes here.   Everyday I’m reminded of the poverty here.   As an example my students come to class in the same clothes everyday.  Or I talk to a friend about his struggles to afford attending the University next year, about $60 a month for tuition.  And at the same time everyday I see how rich life is here.  Kids laugh as they run after chickens that have escaped, and parents always smile from their doorways as I walk by.    If there is one thing I’ve learned in my time here (other than how to grow a mustache) it is how easy it is to get caught up in the business of life, and how often we sell ourselves short and search for satisfaction among possessions which fail to satisfy. 

            My time here has been long, sometimes suffocating, but it has forced me to slow down and given me an opportunity to think, pray, and read.  Right now as it is I cannot wait to get back home and see how my view of my life has changed. I can’t wait to start living differently.  I can’t wait to see family and friends. And I’ll admit it, I can’t wait to eat a brat and watch a baseball game without having to fight with a nun over not changing the channel to “The sweet life of Zach and Cody” when it’s the bottom of the ninth and we’re down by one. 

            I’m going to miss my class and the friends I have made here.  I regret not having more time to work with the community as a whole.  It has truly been a wonderful experience and I hope to return in the future.

            As I leave, I don’t mean to make it sound like I have everything figured out.  If anything, like all successful endeavors, the trip has created more questions than answers.  I don’t know how life will be different. I don’t know how I plan to stay connected to the community.  I don’t know what the ratio of mud to horse crap is that covers my shins after every recess.  I still can’t do a bicycle kick, and I’m never 100% sure of what I agree to in any conversation.   I don’t know what the dogs bark at 11:30 every night, or why the chickens constantly think they’re under siege. 

But for all that I have yet to learn I do know a tin cup makes just as good of a chalice as anything else. Fill it up with good red wine. 

(Check out this metaphor, someone give this guy a Pulitzer. I’ll work on humility during my next trip.)    

Trying to reason with Hurricane Season

As I look back on this past week I can't help but to smile at the number of blessing it brought.  The other group, who left earlier this morning, brought their A game.  They were full of energy and smiles.  Not to mention it was nice to have predominately English being spoken at the dinner table.  I was finally able to share the jokes I had been bottling up inside of me for 3 weeks.  Lets just say most of them landed and leave it at that.  While I had less time to myself, I was surrounded by fun activities and community.  I finally got to go and see how the people here make their corn tortillas that they eat for every meal.  I dropped a few, but they were nice enough to let us take the ones we made home.  (I think they just didn't want them, they looked pretty ugly.)  The experience allowed us to see the inside of one of the homes here.  It was very simple. A dirt floor, two or three rooms, and a wood burning stove.  But how much do we really need?
I also got to see the artwork of one of the locals here.  He invited us to his house and showed us his paints which were amazing.  I was especially impressed as I never even learned how to cut a straight line using scissors. (We all have our crosses to bear in life.)  I also saw a guy climb a coconut tree and then we got to eat and drink fresh coconuts.  Did I mention I got to wield and axe and chop down a tree.  It doesn't get much manlier than that.  I think one of the sisters got nervous because as we neared the end 3 guys speaking Queche and maybe some spanish showed up and took over. ( I had no idea what was going on but contributed a nice "Timber" yell at the end.) In all honesty I am still surprised at how smoothly it went.  The experiences of this week were truly remarkable.
As the week ended, the community really came out to show their appreciation to the visitors.  Thursday night there was a talent show where people danced and sang songs.  The sense of community here is tremendous and it was great to be invited into it.  Friday morning it was a girl from Wisconsin's birthday and so keeping with the tradition we were awoken by firecrackers at 5 in the morning. (I think they were nice or just late, it usually starts at 3 or 4 and no one wears a watch down here.)  Once we got over the initial shock and realized that were not in a war zone, we ran outside to see 3 guys playing guitars and singing.  The hooked up amps.  I doubt if anyone in the village didn't know it was Anna's birthday.
The day concluded with a wonderful dinner prepared by the sisters.  It was like a family Christmas dinner with wine (That surprising did not taste like kerosine) out of a milk carton looking container.  The evening was filled with stories and jokes ( everything had to be told twice once in English and another time in Spanish).
In all this pass week was certainty a blessing.  There was peanut butter! and friends to reflex with, and an overwhelming sense of community.  As I move forward into the last third of my trip (I can't believe there are only two weeks left) I look forward to both the increased time for reflexion and the increased fellowship that has developed with the locals.

I'm writing this under a tin awning (spelled it right the first try!) as a storm rolls in from the East.  It is both exciting and a little nostalgic.  Anyway, that explains the title.

I love the now

This one may be a bit of a stretch, but I think it fits.  Another group arrived from Wisconsin last night.  They're a group of 4.  A guy Sister Jo had in seventh grade in Milwaukee and his daughter, and then a guy and a girl who worked down here on a mission trip last summer.  Its great to have their company.  They're filled with the excitement and joy that accompanies a mission trip.  The two guys are in my room.  We're a little cramped with three beds occupying a room that usually only has one, but I'm more than happy for the company.  As hard as my first weeks were here, I am grateful for the experience.  It seems like the group arrived right as I was settled in.  Right when I was capable of helping them and showing them the ropes of how to flush the toilet, kill scorpions, fish with nothing more than an knife in your teeth, hunt mosquitos with dart guns, and pull of flawless bicycle kicks on the pitch.  I am grateful for their company and the assistance I can lend them in their trip down here in the Big G.
My students took their first test Friday.  Needless to say the scores were disheartening.  There were a few who dominated it. (The 1/8 of the class that participates and plays the games in class) Unfortunately, it seems like I'll have to do a little more work in involving these shy fourth grade students.  I think we'll have to take the test again in a week.  I need to look up some "tough love" words in spanish.  Time to bring the hammer down.
Also this week I finally took an objective look at my surroundings.  To this point I had been describing everything as "different" (which it is), but I wasn't allowing myself to call the village poor.  I think I was afraid that if I realized how poverty stricken the area was, I would think poorly of the people.  Not so.  If any thing it has allowed me to see just how great, and strong the people here are.  I continue to play soccer a few times a week with some young sisters behind there small 2 room house.  They laugh and giggle the whole time, and their parents usually stick there heads out a few times and smile.  I don't have much to give here, but a smile and a hand shake (yeah Mom I'm shaking hands) seem to go a long way.  The other day we were playing perro, perro, gato (dog, dog, cat but we say duck, duck, goose).  I forgot how fun the game was (not really I knew it was a blast, but there just aren't any intramural leagues in Madison).  Afterwards, I picked up the two year old above my head.  Then I had to pick up everyone.  The 4 year-old, the 8 year-old, even the 11 year-old.  Needless to say my chest is pretty chiseled after the workout.    It has been a blessing to slowly acclimate to life here and and slowly work my way into the lives of those in the village.  Overall at the present time in Guatemala, I like Jimmy Buffet and the corral reefer Love the now.  Life is good and I can't wait to see what the next 4 weeks will bring.

As a side note I've gotten to watch 2 Cardinals games here.  Who would've thought I'd see more Cardinal games in Guatemala than Wisconsin.  Sister Jo is a Brewers fan, we all have our vices, don't judge her, I have to bite my tongue a few times in a game.  She's jealous the Brewers aren't on. Also I may have to extend my trip a few more weeks.  By Brians suggestion Ellie sent me the Count of Monte Cristo. Is there a better story of Manliness and all things good?  What a guy, what a gal.  I also shouldn't neglect my family.  They sent my retainer.  Very thoughtful, my teeth and their new hat (this mustache) are very appreciative. Can't wait to see them less than a month.

Homemade Music

It would really be something if I could keep these Jimmy Buffet references up for the rest of the trip.  I'm really just waiting for things to happen that I can relate to a song before I update this thing.
Life in the Big G is cruising along.  Its crazy how similar life is here given everything is different.  There were a few weddings (the week before I came, just missed them), a young girl in the village recently died of AIDS, weekend soccer games, friends laughing in the street, kids walking to school, and pretty much just people who keep on keeping on.  I don't mean to start philosophizing (which my spell check says is a word, maybe thats part of the reason I can't spell), but as I begin to settle down here, I'm surprised and confronted by how similar life seems to be.  No one has houses or cars like in the states.  All the homes in the village are more or less 2 rooms with concrete walls and a tin roof if you're lucky.  There are just a hand full of cars.  I think we had 17 people in our pick-up truck the other day.  But people just seem to do what they have to do, and at its core life ticks a long just fine.
I was reminded of all of this, by a music festival in Raxurah (a nearby town).  The festival was hosted by some nuns there.  For the most part the songs were ok.  I mean I think if I here another song with the accordion on the off-beats or some hip-hop with the classic latin beat I'll have to smash a radio, but it was fun to see the community come together and hang out, and nothing beats homemade music.  Let me tell you the costumes rocked my world.  I think one of the judges had the best one, and he wasn't even trying.  We're talking boots, brown jeans, a striped collar-shirt, a white cowboy hat, and mustache that oozed sheriff.  Pin a star on his chest and give him a six shooter and Guatemala would instantly become one of the safest countries in the world.  We had 3 people enter from our village.  They all won their divisions.  The most notable was a six year old girl, Brandy, who wore all black, with a black hat, and a red bow tie.  She belted it, as only six year olds can.
In other news my class is finally learning that "How are you?" and "What is your name?" are questions that need to be answered, and not just vocab words that I want repeated back to me in spanish.  Its a big step, especially when half of them have lost there name tags.   The name Islida (I still don't know how to say it) just doesn't stick as well as Will or Jennifer.  
Life in the Big G continues to be like homemade music - "Funky and fresh."

Barefoot Children in the Rain

And the Buffet references just keep coming.  When I first arrived in Guatemala, I was worried about the weekends.  I thought I'd have too much free time and be lonely.  Well the first weekend passed filled with chores and soccer games.  It was a pleasant surprise. As this weekend approached I was hopeful for another relaxing, fun couple of days with out teaching.  I know it's still too early to call, but I think I may have counted my chickens before they hacked (and definitely before they could begin crowing outside my window at all hours of the night.)  Friday came with the onset of what I think they call Mantazoma's revenge here.  My stomach was a wreck, and I slept most of the day.  Today was better. I tried to play some soccer with a little kid, but didn't really have the energy.  At the very least every hour seems to be getting better.  Just an unpleasant side affect of traveling abroad I suppose.

In other news I have continued to catch glimpses of a lizard which lives outside my room.  I always notice him as he runs off on his two hind legs.  Also the sisters said that something has been killing the chickens.  They also said it doesn't translate into and English animal name.  I suspect the dreaded, mythical Chupecabra.  I've begun to take dropping samples.  Monsterquest has agreed to come down for a week to investigate.

 I am coming to grips with the length of my travel.  Over the past two weeks I've found myself obsessed with time.  As if counting down the minutes would make them go by faster.  I'm slowly learning not to think about the future and enjoy the present.  It's harder than it seems, but I'm glad for the challenge.  I think it's part of the reason I signed up for this shindig. The change in thought was spurred by a visit to the local day care.  At first all the kids just starred at me.  Then one kid warmed up to me; we started playing catch.  Before I knew it I was playing catch with 5 kids and 3 balls.  After that got old, they took turns climbing up my legs and flipping over.  It was a blast.  On the next visit I had to lift my hands above my head so they would stop grabbing them and circle up for music.  When Hermana Herlinda ( a small quiet sister) entered, the place erupted with cheers and then a chants "Hermana Herlinda! Hermana Herlinda!" Kids were banging on tables. It was great. They were so happy just to see her. The reading for that day was about how we should be children at heart. I decided to just enjoy my time here for what it is.  To cheer for the entrance of new friends, and dive in the mud when playing soccer.  My mom never has to see the stains, why am I worried?  And so I think I'll vistit the day care on a regular basis.  I'll laugh at the fun of mud soccer.  I'll let myself get caught up in the wonder of the mountains.  And I wont stop any of it because of the daily douse of rain.  

Besides barefoot children in the rain, got no need to complain.

Es la vida

Looking back on my first week in Guatemala, I can't believe it went by as fast as it did.  And yet, I remember almost everyday seemed to drag on.  Never in my life have I had this much time free.   There are no neighborhood games, TV shows, or internet to occupy my mind.  I do have access to the internet, and TV, but somehow wasting an hour sitting in a wooden chair doesn't seem as important in Guatemala or as apealling.  I've found that this time, between preparing for classes and talking with locals, has given me an opportunity to really read, study, and think.  Sometimes my thoughts are in a spanish English mix, which only gives me a headache because I'm just repeating spanish words I've heard. Half the time I have to laugh because I don't even understand my own thoughts.  That's when I have to reach for a book and get some good old English back in my system.  I try to work in a little spanish work out my old text book into the afternoons, but really any structure my day has, it has because I put it there.  I don't know, maybe you're jealous, and maybe its one of those things I'll appreciate more in retrospect, but at times it add makes for a long day.
I really am starting to enjoy the village.  I've been on two runs through the area.  They are the hottest, hilliest, and probably some of the prettiest runs I've been on.  It helps to get to know the area, and I think the newness of my visit is wearing off both for me and the locals.  Overall that helps me be more comfortable. I also played soccer with some 14 and 15 year olds the other night.  It started as an older guy (who acted as the coach) working with them on set plays.  I got to help and send a couple crosses into the box. It was reassuring to see someone teaching sports down here.  Anyway, after about a half hour of playing, people began to come out of the woodwork.  I had no idea this many people lived here. We had enough for four or five full teams, and switched after 15 minutes, or the first goal.  I was scrambling  to keep up.  Some how my soccer skills just aren't what they used to be, but it was great to get some good competition in.  Was it a coincidence that I did laundry earlier and so just happened to be wearing my Landon Donivan shirt.  Maybe, but if you had seen the the strike I sent in the upper 90 in warm ups you would have questioned who I actually was.
My spanish is coming a long poco a poco.  I've made a few friends who stop by and chat everyday which helps (both with spanish and homesickness).  I also figured out what the kids in my class have been calling me, since JT apparently is too hard to say for spanish speakers. Rafa, which is short for giraffe in spanish.  Kinda sweet intimidating nickname if you ask me.  It'll go great with this sweet mustache that has begun to creep its way onto my upper lip.  I'll keep ya posted on the progress.

There's a cowboy in the Jungle

The great singer-songwriter Jimmy Buffett starts one of his most well known songs out with the all too true line

"Livin on sponge cake, watching the sun the bake."

  However, more relevent to my situtuation is the song that begins

"There's a cowboy in the jungle and he looks so out of place."

 Now I'm not saying I wear flanel shirts, jeans, boots, and a wicked sweet mustache (or am I? Seriously I haven't seen a mirror in a few days and there isn't one sight.) I do stand out quite a bit down here ( as evidenced by the little kids who yell "Gringo, gringo" every time I walk out of my room).  I think the adverage hight in Guatemala is somewhere between my bellybutton and arm pits, which puts the fourth graders I teach at about my waist.  I stood out like a cowboy in the jungle when I traveled to the village.  (As a side note, in Guatemala the road lines are more suggestions than anything else, and I think bus drivers get the brake and the horn confused.  The problem is applified by the fact that the horn seems to be connected to the accelerator. Usually the situation is remedied by swerving in the left lane as we go around a blind corner. ) The combination of bad driving and sticking out like a sore thum, and my sub-par spanish, made for a nervous trip.  I have been able to calm down a little though since arriving in San Jose el Teroso, and I'm enjoying getting to know the kids I teach, as well as a few other brave souls to yell "Gringo ven aqui."

In general everyday has been abit of a dream.  I can't believe I'm actually down here. Nor can I believe I'm going be down here unitl mid August! But its also a lot of fun. I got completely soaked in mud my first soccer game (which my team won by the way).  I think first day I taught I was just saying the first spanish words that came to mind.  Today was better, but I never prepared for the challenge that is teaching shy fourth graders.  Sometimes I think I would get a louder response from my echo if I taught a wall. 

Its crazy how living out of your comfort zone gives you a more honest view of yourself.  There are no comforts or even things I'm familiar with to hide behind.  Just me, and talk is cheap. The town runs on rain water, and my toilet doesn't flush.  I have to use a buckett of water to wash everything down.  How does that work you ask? Well its a crap shoot. (oooh see what I did there).  Well I should probably get some work done before my spanish soap starts.  I don't understand much of the talk, but the cheap camera work and dramatic facial expressions are captavating! I'll try to update this a couple times a week. Keep me in your prayers!